#virtualoregontrail July 4-10, 1845 - Sweetwater River, Devil's Gate and Independence Rock

Continuing with the Diary of James Field as published in the Willamette Farmer:

Fri., 4. - We went about 14 miles; country of the same character as yesterday. A company of five mountain traders camped with us last night, and we intend travelling together to Fort Bridger, they acting as pilots for us.

1870 Photo of Independence Rock, Wyoming.
Department of the Interior. General Land Office.
U.S. Geological and Geographic Survey of the Territories.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Independence_Rock_(Wyoming)#/media/File:Oregon_Trail%27s_Independence_Rock_1870.gif

Sat., 5. -  Went about 17 miles, the road sandy and heavy as ever, with occasionally a dry pond-hole in the valleys covered with a crust of salt mixed with lime, white and glittering in the sun like snow. Passed near noon a salt lake on our right, about half a mile wide, the borders of which were crusted with the same composition. About ten miles from our former camp struck and crossed Sweetwater River at a large rock on its northern side, called Independence Rock, from the circumstance of Capt. Sublette with a party of men celebrating the 4th of July there. There are hundreds of names cut and painted on the rock by persons passing it. We here entered the narrow valley of the Sweetwater, which leads on toward the pass between two low ranges of mountains, and soon after met the U. S. Dragoons returning from the pass, they having camped one night in Oregon. Near our camp is one of the wildest-looking places yet seen, called the Devil's Gate. The Sweetwater, after winding through a narrow, alluvial bottom, passes through a ridge of perpendicular rock 120 feet high, the chasm being about three rods wide, and the water roaring as it struggles among the loose rock at the bottom like a cataract.

1870 photo - Looking west from over Devil's Gate showing the plains of the Sweetwater,
the Oregon Trail, and the Seminole Mountains in the distance.
By Department of the Interior. General Land Office.
U.S. Geological and Geographic Survey of the Territories.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweetwater_River_(Wyoming)#/media/File:Oregon_Trail%27s_Sweetwater_River_1870.gif

Sun., 6. - Went 17 miles to-day, the road better in places. The latter part was a long, heavy pull, though. Passed a fine piece of red-top grass with crow-foot and dandelion among it, giving it the appearance of an Eastern meadow. This is the first of the plants I have seen this side of the States, or of the grass either. Saw a salt lake about 30 rods in diameter, full of soft, white slime, like the settlings of a brine cask, the borders being miry, with a hard crust on top.

Mon., 7 - Went about ten miles; character of the country the same, with a slight improvement in the road. We camped near where the road enters the northern range of mountains, which have heretofore bounded the valley on its northern side. Those mountains are of solid rock, nearly destitute of earth or trees. The southern range has considerable timber upon it in places being composed of earth, and much higher than the northern ones.

Tues., 8. - The road this morning led through the northern range of mountains, - that is, it struck across at an angle which it makes across the river, after which both ranges recede from the river, leaving a broader valley than anywhere heretofore. We traveled about 20 miles, crossing and recrossing the river twice, and camping as we have always done upon the south side of it.

Wed., 9. - Went about four miles and camped, our oxen being a good deal cut down with the past ten days' travel, much of the road being very sandy. The Wind River Mountains were in sight nearly all of yesterday and to-day, lifting their snowy summits along the western horizon. The nights here are chilly.

Thurs., 10. - Went five miles and camped in the same bottom we were in last evening.

From “The Diary of James Field” Willamette Farmer (Portland, OR, Fridays: April 18 – August 1, 1879). 

 6 Jun 1879 (June 30-July 14) 

https://oregonnews.uoregon.edu/lccn/sn85042522/1879-06-06/ed-1/seq-6/ 

#virtualoregontrail June 27 - July 3, 1845 - "when men get mulish, they sometimes make asses of themselves"

Continued from the diary of James Field:

Frid. 27. - Yesterday morning a horse was missing from our company, and three others from Capt. English's, who encamped near us that night. Two men were left behind to hunt ours, and they report that it is their belief she was taken off by Indians, as they found moccasin tracks near the place they lost the trail. We camped last evening near Martin's company, which detained us again this morning dividing out cattle. We however traveled about 14 miles, all three companies camping on a small creek, near each other again. In the afternoon, met a company of trappers, with mules and ponies packed with furs, going from Fort Bridger, near the Southwest Pass, to the States, and the wildest-looking crew they were of any we have met with yet, some of them having their squaws and children with them. We saw buffalo to-day, killing one. We have seen none before, since we were about 60 miles below Fort Larimie.

A trapper loaded with supplies and furs.
Image from http://www.unco.edu/hewit/doing-history/trappers-traders/trappers/trappers-work-tools.aspx.

Sat. 28. - The country, for the past few days, is not so full of timber as it was near Fort Larimie. It is broken with high hills, some of them rising into little mountains, the naked sides of which are the perfect image of desolation itself. The water-courses are sandy, and present the phenomenon of sinking and rising again from the sand, which makes the country appear scarcer of water than it really is, as in crossing one you may see nothing but a hot, dry bed of loose sand, whilst by following it up or down you may find a fine running stream of water, pure as crystal, rising, running a short distance, then sinking into it again. The water is of an excellent quality, as by this constant filtration through the sand it is cleansed of all impurities, if any originally exist. We lay in camp to-day, in order to get clear of the other companies, as our cattle were mixing every night, causing considerable work separating them every morning. Three fine deer were killed, also two beaver. The latter animals appear very thick along the creek, it being dammed by them at every short interval, and the banks strewn with trees cut ready for transportation to their dams. These trees were young cottonwoods, from two to six inches in diameter and eight to twelve feet long, being cut at both ends as well as an Indian would do it with his hatchet, leaving only the tooth-print to detect the laborer by. The two that were killed were shaped like a coon, excepting the hind foot and tail, the foot being webbed like a duck's, and the tail, which was covered with a hard skin looking like fine scales, was precisely the shape of a trowel. The color was brown, and in size it was double that of the coon. The tail is considered a great delicacy by the trapper and  hunter. I had an opportunity to-day of testing the comparative quality of deer and buffalo meat. Both were of excellent quality, but the deer has a decided preference, being of a finer grain and more juicy and tender.

American Beaver, Image from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beaver

Sun. 29. - On driving up our stock this morning three oxen were missing, and, although the owners could go along without them, they declared they would not move for ten days unless they were found; so, after yoking up and standing in line more than half the day, we turned out, and camped upon the same spot again. It had been the practice of the company, when a few cattle were missing, to send back a party to hunt them, and let the others move on, but when men get mulish, they sometimes make asses of themselves, and here are to-night, with Tethero's company of 30 wagons and 300 head of cattle jammed in upon us, thus losing two days' travel to get clear of Martin's comany, and then getting mixed with one twice its size, whilst Stewart's company passed noon with 22 wagons.

Mon. 30. - Saw trees along the creek this morning from 20 inches to two feet in diameter, which had been cut down by beavers. Divided our cattle and got under way about 9 o'clock. Traveled 18 miles, camping on a creek close to the river again. About eight miles from our last camp, at the crossing of a creek, found a paper nailed to a piece of board informing us that the three missing oxen are ahead in English's company. We struck the river bottom about five miles from here; a smooth, level road was quite a luxury after four or five days' travel among the Black Hills.

Tues., July 1. - Traveled about 17 miles, most of the way up the river bottom, camping again on the river. Much of the distance is lost in heading ravines, and we cannot be more than ten miles higher up the river than last evening. This has been the case all the way this side of Fort Larimie, and a map of our road would show many serpentine windings.

Wed., 2. - Went 12 miles further up the North Fork, crossed it, and camped, feeling as though one good job was done, now that all the main forks of the Platte were left behind. This fork at the crossing is about 80 yards wide, current rapid as a mill-race, and so deep as to render it necessary to block up some of the lowest wagon beds. The bottom is hard and pebbly, and in crossing it is necessary to turn first down stream, then up.

Thurs., 3. - One accident occurred yesterday, which I omitted mentioning. In crossing a ravine, a wagon was overturned, it being the first of the kind that has yet occurred. But one person was in the wagon, and he received no injury. We were moving again in 20 minutes. Traveled about 23 miles to-day, giving the Platte the good-bye, and camping upon a small stream running from springs among the sand-hills. On leaving the Platte we struck the dreariest country we have yet traveled, it being barren, sandy hills and plains, with not a tree or shrub in view except the eternal wild sage which abounds everywhere this side of Larimie. It is a species of wormwood resembling garden wormwood more than it does sage. In places from three to eight miles apart we come to little valleys of clay ground from two to five or six rods wide, having a little water and some short, fine grass in them, and there are the camping places. For fuel, buffalo chips again come into play, and where the wormwood is large enough, we use it, lighting the camp nicely at night. There is also a small bush resembling cedar, the leaves of which have an acid taste. The water in the deepest of these valleys is very brackish, the clay where it comes in contact with it turning black, and it tastes strongly of salt, sulphur, etc., and I think of iron rust. The higher springs are very good.

Image of Big Sagebrush from http://fwp.mt.gov/mtoutdoors/HTML/articles/portraits/bigsagebrush.htm#.WvYdY6Qvz3g

From “The Diary of James Field” Willamette Farmer (Portland, OR, Fridays: April 18 – August 1, 1879). 

 9 May 1879 (June 18-29) https://oregonnews.uoregon.edu/lccn/sn85042522/1879-05-09/ed-1/seq-5/  

 6 Jun 1879 (June 30-July 14)  https://oregonnews.uoregon.edu/lccn/sn85042522/1879-06-06/ed-1/seq-6/ 

#virtualoregontrail June 20-26, 1845 - Fort Laramie, Wyoming

Continuing with the diary of James Field:

Frid. 20. - Reached Ft. Larimie about noon, traveling eight miles, the road sandy, traveling heavy. It is situated on Larimie's fork of Platte, in a rough, barren region of country, near the base of the Rocky Mountains, the dark outlines of which are now in view, and is one of the forts of the American Fur Company. Fort Platte is about one mile from it, further down the fork, and belongs to some French traders. the Sioux have been collected here in considerable numbers this season, but many of them are now gone, the traders tell us. Those that are here are very friendly with us, wishing to make all sorts of trades, even to swapping horses for girls. I think them as intelligent, cleanly-looking Indians as ever I saw anywhere. Noticed a number of half-breeds among the young Indians, and am told it is the regular custom of the traders to keep Indian wives at the fort. They say it is necessary for their personal safety, as they are then considered one of the tribe, and should one get killed his friends will avenge his death. The Sioux have numbers of very fine horses, the best I ever saw among Indians, and they prize a good one highly, they are so useful for killing buffalo. They are very anxious to trade their ponies for good American horses. The only guns among them, or that they will have, are short, large-bored shot-guns, and they don't want a rifle at any rate. Many of the company spent the afternoon in writing to their friends, and one little incident amused me much. I was lying beside my wagon, in which a woman was writing to her friends in Illinois, when a young Missourian, a girl about 8 years of age, steps upon the wagon-tongue, and says, "Mrs. C., are you writing a letter?" "Yes" "Put something in to Uncle Jack and Aunt Lucy for me, won't you?"

Fort Laramie, 1845.
Image from http://www.wyomingtalesandtrails.com/photos.html

Sat. 21. - Went about 20 miles over a rough, broken country with a range of mountains having several high peaks in view on our left. Had a moonlight march to get a camp, it being near 11 o'clock when we left the fort, which brought us into camp about 10 at night, when we reached a small creek.

Sun. 22. - Went 12 miles through a country presenting the same wild and barren aspect as yesterday, which brought us to the north fork again, on which we camped. Since reaching Fort Larimie, the aspect of the country has changed entirely. We no more find the smooth level prairie, on which the wagon rolls for miles without any pulling, as one might say. The whole country is covered at intervals with pine and cedar timber, so that buffalo chips find a poor market, and the intervales along the streams are narrower, and afford much less pasture, being dry and unproductive.

Mon. 23. - Having an excellent camp for wood, water, and grass, and plenty of dirty duds in the wagons to keep the women out of mischief for one day, we concluded to lie by.


Tues. 24. - Went about 14 miles, the road better than any in the neighborhood of Fort Larimie, being less sandy and uneven. About 7 miles from our last encampment, passed the camp of a small detachment of U. S. dragoons, having a baggage wagon with them, as they are conveying a disabled soldier back to the fort. His name is Smith, and the accident occurred some 40 miles ahead. In drawing his gun from a thicket of brush it went off, shattering his arm in two places so that it was necessary to amputate it above the elbow, which operation has been performed, and he appears to be doing well.

Image from https://www.nps.gov/fosc/learn/education/dragoon10.htm

Wed. 25. - Went about 8 miles, camping on a small stream, about 4 miles from the river. Saw near camp a flock of partridges, the first I have seen since leaving home. Country again broken and rugged, road hilly.

Thur. 26. - Went 16 miles, camping on a stream somewhat larger that the last, with the surrounding hills full of red clay, giving them the color of brick. I am disappointed in the part of the country we are now traveling, as we were told of several stretches of 20 and 30 miles along here without water, but we have found none such yet, as in every deep ravine we are nearly sure of finding water and more or less grass. This evening wehave an excellent camp for both, and as for wood, it is plenty everywhere in the deep hollows.

From “The Diary of James Field” Willamette Farmer (Portland, OR, Fridays: April 18 – August 1, 1879). 

  9 May 1879 (June 18-29) 

https://oregonnews.uoregon.edu/lccn/sn85042522/1879-05-09/ed-1/seq-5/  

#virtualoregontrail June 13-19, 1845 The Chimney & Scott's Bluffs

Frid. 13. - Went 18 miles, and camped about one mile above some more Mackinaw boats, the company trading some meal and flour for buffalo skins, moccasins, &c., with them the price of a buffalo skin being two or three gallons of meal. About ten miles from the last camp, crossed another creek as large as the one we camped upon, crossing not far from a large rock called Solomon's Rock, a singular looking pile, resembling a large castle at a distance. Another noted peak was in sight nearly all day, called The Chimney. 

https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/scotts_bluff/chimney_rock.html

Sat. 14. - Went 9 miles, camping directly opposite The Chimney, which is a pillar of soft sandstone and clay, about 80 feet high, standing upon a pyramidal-shaped mound about 200 feet in height, making The Chimney top near 300 feet above the level of the river. The Chimney was said to be 800 feet high, when the country was first explored, but, like many other wonders of the world, it diminishes on a better acquaintance. It is very evident, however, that its size and height are constantly being reduced by the action of the wind and rain upon the soft material of which it is composed. Another cause operates in the country to prevent a person's forming any accurate idea of the height and distance of an object by guess. The horizontal refraction is uncommonly great, so much so at times that a man on the verge of the horizon is lengthened out until he appears like the branchless trunk of a tree. 

Sun. 15. - Went about 13 miles, passing what we called Scott's Bluffs, from the circumstance of a man of that name dying there, he being deserted by two men who were sent down with him to take him to the States on account of his sickness, and who was left here to perish; they went on, and reported him dead and buried, but his body was afterward discovered at a different spot from where they reported him buried, and other circumstances made it apparent he had died of starvation and want. In the afternoon we passed a singular spot, appearing as if a water-cloud had bursted upon it, washing the soil and sand off several acres, and leaving the hard clary intersected with channels so deep that a person's head when on horseback was below the level of the surface. Just as we camped, three gentlemen from Fort Larimie, returning to the States, came to camp, and spent the night with us. They told us they would take on all letters written, and next morning received a good-sized packet of them. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scotts_Bluff_National_Monument

Mon. 16. - Went 15 miles, leaving the river, and passing in behind the high bluffs next it. These bluffs, both yesterday and to day, have presented a singular appearance, looking at times like works of art, and leading one's imagination to the ancient cities of the East, with their towers, temples, palaces, &c. Some of the head companies, as they passed along, destroying so much pasture it will be difficult for the companies behind us to get good camps, and they comprise at least two thirds of the emigration. 

Tues. 17. - Thanks to him who set the prairie on fire, we had to go back this morning to our last encampment for some of our working cattle, which occupied so much of the day we were obliged to lie still the remainder. During the day a Sioux Indian visited our camp, he being the first of that nation we have yet seen. 

1845 painting by Charles Deas, A Group of Sioux, via Wikimedia Commons.

Wed. 18. - This morning we went 12 miles, which took us to the real Horse creek, and 10 more to the north fork, where we found an excellent camp for grass, wood, and water. The information that Clark, who acted as pilot when the companies were all together, gave us, led me to suppose our second encampment after leaving Ash Hollow was made upon Horse creek, but in this I was mistaken, as the traders tell us this is the real Horse creek.

Thur. 19. - We camped last evening in company with Mr. Martin's company of 13 wagons, they having camped so near us at the last camping place that our cattle were mixed, and we yesterday traveled in one company, camping however in two separate circles. They were originally a part of Mr. Tethero's company, the one spoken of before reaching the Wolf River Indian Agency, and we have been near neighbors ever since our separation from McNary. They this morning got the start of us with their wagons, and we parted company, dividing the cattle detaining us some time. Went 14 miles, camping on the Fork, finding plenty of excellent firewood. The bottom along the Fork appears to have been lately quite well timbered, but it is now nearly all destroyed by fire, the dead and dry wood strewing the bottom. About two miles from camp passed the ruins of an old trading fort, apparently it being four stone fireplaces enclosed with the stumps of a stockade, the stockade having been burned off.

From “The Diary of James Field” Willamette Farmer (Portland, OR, Fridays: April 18 – August 1, 1879). 

 25 Apr 1879 (May 28-June 17) 

https://oregonnews.uoregon.edu/lccn/sn85042522/1879-04-25/ed-1/seq-3/  

9 May 1879 (June 18-29) 

https://oregonnews.uoregon.edu/lccn/sn85042522/1879-05-09/ed-1/seq-5/