Wednesday, June 13, 2018

#virtualoregontrail June 13-19, 1845 The Chimney & Scott's Bluffs

Frid. 13. - Went 18 miles, and camped about one mile above some more Mackinaw boats, the company trading some meal and flour for buffalo skins, moccasins, &c., with them the price of a buffalo skin being two or three gallons of meal. About ten miles from the last camp, crossed another creek as large as the one we camped upon, crossing not far from a large rock called Solomon's Rock, a singular looking pile, resembling a large castle at a distance. Another noted peak was in sight nearly all day, called The Chimney. 


https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/scotts_bluff/chimney_rock.html

Sat. 14. - Went 9 miles, camping directly opposite The Chimney, which is a pillar of soft sandstone and clay, about 80 feet high, standing upon a pyramidal-shaped mound about 200 feet in height, making The Chimney top near 300 feet above the level of the river. The Chimney was said to be 800 feet high, when the country was first explored, but, like many other wonders of the world, it diminishes on a better acquaintance. It is very evident, however, that its size and height are constantly being reduced by the action of the wind and rain upon the soft material of which it is composed. Another cause operates in the country to prevent a person's forming any accurate idea of the height and distance of an object by guess. The horizontal refraction is uncommonly great, so much so at times that a man on the verge of the horizon is lengthened out until he appears like the branchless trunk of a tree. 

Sun. 15. - Went about 13 miles, passing what we called Scott's Bluffs, from the circumstance of a man of that name dying there, he being deserted by two men who were sent down with him to take him to the States on account of his sickness, and who was left here to perish; they went on, and reported him dead and buried, but his body was afterward discovered at a different spot from where they reported him buried, and other circumstances made it apparent he had died of starvation and want. In the afternoon we passed a singular spot, appearing as if a water-cloud had bursted upon it, washing the soil and sand off several acres, and leaving the hard clary intersected with channels so deep that a person's head when on horseback was below the level of the surface. Just as we camped, three gentlemen from Fort Larimie, returning to the States, came to camp, and spent the night with us. They told us they would take on all letters written, and next morning received a good-sized packet of them. 
Mon. 16. - Went 15 miles, leaving the river, and passing in behind the high bluffs next it. These bluffs, both yesterday and to day, have presented a singular appearance, looking at times like works of art, and leading one's imagination to the ancient cities of the East, with their towers, temples, palaces, &c. Some of the head companies, as they passed along, destroying so much pasture it will be difficult for the companies behind us to get good camps, and they comprise at least two thirds of the emigration. 

Tues. 17. - Thanks to him who set the prairie on fire, we had to go back this morning to our last encampment for some of our working cattle, which occupied so much of the day we were obliged to lie still the remainder. During the day a Sioux Indian visited our camp, he being the first of that nation we have yet seen. 


1845 painting by Charles Deas, A Group of Sioux, via Wikimedia Commons.

Wed. 18. - This morning we went 12 miles, which took us to the real Horse creek, and 10 more to the north fork, where we found an excellent camp for grass, wood, and water. The information that Clark, who acted as pilot when the companies were all together, gave us, led me to suppose our second encampment after leaving Ash Hollow was made upon Horse creek, but in this I was mistaken, as the traders tell us this is the real Horse creek.

Thur. 19. - We camped last evening in company with Mr. Martin's company of 13 wagons, they having camped so near us at the last camping place that our cattle were mixed, and we yesterday traveled in one company, camping however in two separate circles. They were originally a part of Mr. Tethero's company, the one spoken of before reaching the Wolf River Indian Agency, and we have been near neighbors ever since our separation from McNary. They this morning got the start of us with their wagons, and we parted company, dividing the cattle detaining us some time. Went 14 miles, camping on the Fork, finding plenty of excellent firewood. The bottom along the Fork appears to have been lately quite well timbered, but it is now nearly all destroyed by fire, the dead and dry wood strewing the bottom. About two miles from camp passed the ruins of an old trading fort, apparently it being four stone fireplaces enclosed with the stumps of a stockade, the stockade having been burned off.


From “The Diary of James Field” Willamette Farmer (Portland, OR, Fridays: April 18 – August 1, 1879). 
 25 Apr 1879 (May 28-June 17) 
9 May 1879 (June 18-29) 


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