Wednesday, July 4, 2018

#virtualoregontrail July 4-10, 1845 - Sweetwater River, Devil's Gate and Independence Rock

Continuing with the Diary of James Field as published in the Willamette Farmer:

Fri., 4. - We went about 14 miles; country of the same character as yesterday. A company of five mountain traders camped with us last night, and we intend travelling together to Fort Bridger, they acting as pilots for us.

1870 Photo of Independence Rock, Wyoming.
Department of the Interior. General Land Office.
U.S. Geological and Geographic Survey of the Territories.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Independence_Rock_(Wyoming)#/media/File:Oregon_Trail%27s_Independence_Rock_1870.gif

Sat., 5. -  Went about 17 miles, the road sandy and heavy as ever, with occasionally a dry pond-hole in the valleys covered with a crust of salt mixed with lime, white and glittering in the sun like snow. Passed near noon a salt lake on our right, about half a mile wide, the borders of which were crusted with the same composition. About ten miles from our former camp struck and crossed Sweetwater River at a large rock on its northern side, called Independence Rock, from the circumstance of Capt. Sublette with a party of men celebrating the 4th of July there. There are hundreds of names cut and painted on the rock by persons passing it. We here entered the narrow valley of the Sweetwater, which leads on toward the pass between two low ranges of mountains, and soon after met the U. S. Dragoons returning from the pass, they having camped one night in Oregon. Near our camp is one of the wildest-looking places yet seen, called the Devil's Gate. The Sweetwater, after winding through a narrow, alluvial bottom, passes through a ridge of perpendicular rock 120 feet high, the chasm being about three rods wide, and the water roaring as it struggles among the loose rock at the bottom like a cataract.

1870 photo - Looking west from over Devil's Gate showing the plains of the Sweetwater,
the Oregon Trail, and the Seminole Mountains in the distance.
By Department of the Interior. General Land Office.
U.S. Geological and Geographic Survey of the Territories.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweetwater_River_(Wyoming)#/media/File:Oregon_Trail%27s_Sweetwater_River_1870.gif

Sun., 6. - Went 17 miles to-day, the road better in places. The latter part was a long, heavy pull, though. Passed a fine piece of red-top grass with crow-foot and dandelion among it, giving it the appearance of an Eastern meadow. This is the first of the plants I have seen this side of the States, or of the grass either. Saw a salt lake about 30 rods in diameter, full of soft, white slime, like the settlings of a brine cask, the borders being miry, with a hard crust on top.

Mon., 7 - Went about ten miles; character of the country the same, with a slight improvement in the road. We camped near where the road enters the northern range of mountains, which have heretofore bounded the valley on its northern side. Those mountains are of solid rock, nearly destitute of earth or trees. The southern range has considerable timber upon it in places being composed of earth, and much higher than the northern ones.

Tues., 8. - The road this morning led through the northern range of mountains, - that is, it struck across at an angle which it makes across the river, after which both ranges recede from the river, leaving a broader valley than anywhere heretofore. We traveled about 20 miles, crossing and recrossing the river twice, and camping as we have always done upon the south side of it.

Wed., 9. - Went about four miles and camped, our oxen being a good deal cut down with the past ten days' travel, much of the road being very sandy. The Wind River Mountains were in sight nearly all of yesterday and to-day, lifting their snowy summits along the western horizon. The nights here are chilly.

Thurs., 10. - Went five miles and camped in the same bottom we were in last evening.

From “The Diary of James Field” Willamette Farmer (Portland, OR, Fridays: April 18 – August 1, 1879). 
 6 Jun 1879 (June 30-July 14) 


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