Continuing with the diary of James Field:
Fri., 22.- Went about 18 miles, crossing Boise river and camping on it for the last time. It is a stream of fine, clear water, some 40 or 50 yards wide, and abounds with fish, which may be seen playing in its clear waters in many places. This afternoon the road passed close along the brink of the river at a point where there was a place of considerable depth between two riffles, and it was literally alive with fish, many of them very large salmon. This river at the point we first struck it, comes out of a range of mountains between walls of perpendicular rock several hundred feet high. After passing the mountains they gradually recede from the river, leaving a narrow bottom between, and at length die away in the steep bluffs which bound the valley on either hand. The bottom is not very fertile, but still there is very fine grass in patches, and it is cut up by sloughs, apparently washed out by the spring freshets. The banks are lined with cottonwoods and willows.
Sat., Aug. 23, 1845. - Went four miles this morning, which took us to Fort Boise, which stands on the eastern bank of Snake river, near the mouth of the Boise. It is a small, mean-looking fort, built like the others of sun-dried mud moulded into the shape of bricks, and appears more calculated for the collection of furs from other forts than for trading in its own immediate vicinity, as there is no game there, and the Indians living in this part of the country are very poor, many of them nearly naked and living on fish and roots. It was necessary to re-cross Snake river at this place, which is here fordable, and we all got safely over during the after-noon, camping on the western bank. The Indians assisted us in crossing, showing us the ford and helping us to drive the loose cattle, in return for which a few presents pleased them greatly. The river is near half a mile wide, and so deep as to run over the tops of the wagon sides in places, but as it was generally of uniform depth all the way across, the current was not so rapid as at the other crossing.
Sun., 24. - The story of the murder of two Frenchmen by the Walla Wallas is pronounced a humbug by the people of the fort. They say that the Walla Wallas entertain a hostile feeling towards us, and will probably try to injure us as we pass through their territory, but their numbers or equipments would not render them dangerous to such sized companies as we are at present. Still, the nature of the country is such that if they took advantage of it they could damage us considerably. We had traveled thus far as three companies without any general commander, and previous to our starting this morning it was agreed to choose one. Accordingly, James B. Riggs, our own old captain, was elected captain of the whole by a unanimous vote. A man named Meek has engaged to pilot the leading company, Capt. Owensby's, which is the only one now ahead of us. He was to guide the outfit through to the Dalles of the Columbia river by a new and near route, following the pack trail from Fort Boise and missing the Walla Wallas altogether, leaving Fort Walla Walla on his right and cutting off between 100 and 200 miles' travel. A vote was taken whether we should follow them or keep the old way, and a majority decided upon the new one. We traveled about 16 miles, camping upon Malheur creek, near the forks of the two roads.
Mond., 25.- ___ about 11 miles across the h___ ___ing on Malheur river again. Since crossing to this side of Snake river again the road has been fearfully dusty. In fact, a person who has never traveled these wormwood barrens can form no idea as to what depth dust may be cut up in them by a few wagons passing. To a person walking in the road it is frequently more than shoe deep, and if the wind happens to blow length-wise with the road, it raises such a fog you cannot see the wagon next in front.
Tues., 26. - Went about ten miles, still keeping up Malheur, crossing and re-crossing it twice, and camping upon it. We were obliged to take to the bluffs to get across several narrow bends of the river, and we there found some as hard road as any we have yet traveled. Indeed, I begin to think wagons can go anywhere.
Wed., 27.- Went about 18 miles to-day. The road, although leading across bluffs which in a country where mountains are a rarity would pass for pretty good sized ones, was tolerably fair, but there is an abundance of small, sharp stones in it, black and hard as iron, and very wearing to the feet of the cattle. We camped upon Carter's fork, from its appearance a branch of Burnt river.
Thurs., 28.- Went about six miles, camping upon the same branch as before. The sharp stones spoken of yesterday we more plentiful to-day, and a few more such days' travel as this will entirely use up our cattles' feet.
Fri., 22.- Went about 18 miles, crossing Boise river and camping on it for the last time. It is a stream of fine, clear water, some 40 or 50 yards wide, and abounds with fish, which may be seen playing in its clear waters in many places. This afternoon the road passed close along the brink of the river at a point where there was a place of considerable depth between two riffles, and it was literally alive with fish, many of them very large salmon. This river at the point we first struck it, comes out of a range of mountains between walls of perpendicular rock several hundred feet high. After passing the mountains they gradually recede from the river, leaving a narrow bottom between, and at length die away in the steep bluffs which bound the valley on either hand. The bottom is not very fertile, but still there is very fine grass in patches, and it is cut up by sloughs, apparently washed out by the spring freshets. The banks are lined with cottonwoods and willows.
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| Old Fort Boise, sketch by William H. Tappan. http://www.historyglobe.com/ot/ftboise.htm |
Sat., Aug. 23, 1845. - Went four miles this morning, which took us to Fort Boise, which stands on the eastern bank of Snake river, near the mouth of the Boise. It is a small, mean-looking fort, built like the others of sun-dried mud moulded into the shape of bricks, and appears more calculated for the collection of furs from other forts than for trading in its own immediate vicinity, as there is no game there, and the Indians living in this part of the country are very poor, many of them nearly naked and living on fish and roots. It was necessary to re-cross Snake river at this place, which is here fordable, and we all got safely over during the after-noon, camping on the western bank. The Indians assisted us in crossing, showing us the ford and helping us to drive the loose cattle, in return for which a few presents pleased them greatly. The river is near half a mile wide, and so deep as to run over the tops of the wagon sides in places, but as it was generally of uniform depth all the way across, the current was not so rapid as at the other crossing.
Sun., 24. - The story of the murder of two Frenchmen by the Walla Wallas is pronounced a humbug by the people of the fort. They say that the Walla Wallas entertain a hostile feeling towards us, and will probably try to injure us as we pass through their territory, but their numbers or equipments would not render them dangerous to such sized companies as we are at present. Still, the nature of the country is such that if they took advantage of it they could damage us considerably. We had traveled thus far as three companies without any general commander, and previous to our starting this morning it was agreed to choose one. Accordingly, James B. Riggs, our own old captain, was elected captain of the whole by a unanimous vote. A man named Meek has engaged to pilot the leading company, Capt. Owensby's, which is the only one now ahead of us. He was to guide the outfit through to the Dalles of the Columbia river by a new and near route, following the pack trail from Fort Boise and missing the Walla Wallas altogether, leaving Fort Walla Walla on his right and cutting off between 100 and 200 miles' travel. A vote was taken whether we should follow them or keep the old way, and a majority decided upon the new one. We traveled about 16 miles, camping upon Malheur creek, near the forks of the two roads.
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| Stephen Meek (1807-1889) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stephen_Meek |
Mond., 25.- ___ about 11 miles across the h___ ___ing on Malheur river again. Since crossing to this side of Snake river again the road has been fearfully dusty. In fact, a person who has never traveled these wormwood barrens can form no idea as to what depth dust may be cut up in them by a few wagons passing. To a person walking in the road it is frequently more than shoe deep, and if the wind happens to blow length-wise with the road, it raises such a fog you cannot see the wagon next in front.
Tues., 26. - Went about ten miles, still keeping up Malheur, crossing and re-crossing it twice, and camping upon it. We were obliged to take to the bluffs to get across several narrow bends of the river, and we there found some as hard road as any we have yet traveled. Indeed, I begin to think wagons can go anywhere.
Wed., 27.- Went about 18 miles to-day. The road, although leading across bluffs which in a country where mountains are a rarity would pass for pretty good sized ones, was tolerably fair, but there is an abundance of small, sharp stones in it, black and hard as iron, and very wearing to the feet of the cattle. We camped upon Carter's fork, from its appearance a branch of Burnt river.
Thurs., 28.- Went about six miles, camping upon the same branch as before. The sharp stones spoken of yesterday we more plentiful to-day, and a few more such days' travel as this will entirely use up our cattles' feet.
From “The Diary of James Field” Willamette Farmer (Portland, OR, Fridays: April 18 – August 1, 1879).
11 Jul 1879 (August 11-22)
18 Jul 1879 (August 23-September 7)
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